Trick 17...? Huh?

first published:  2/2009  R. Kwas  (revisions on-going)

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122 (Wagon) Trailing Arm Bushing Bolt Removal...the steel bolts (Item 27 X2, going through the Alu cored bushing, Item 20, exposed to rainwater) will unify into what author likes to call a "Monolithic Structure" as Mother Nature does her thing by way of Galvanic Corrosion.  When Bushings need to be replaced, mechanics will typically find the bolts absolutely impossible to extract after the Nuts are removed... 

If penetrating lubes and heating the Bolts is unsuccessful, and mechanic is considering more violent  techniques, here is my recommendation...it should be the Last Resort because bolts must be sacrificed!  Cut head from bolts (doing as little damage as possible to axle tube tabs or trailing arm as possible!  A powered reciprocating saw will work well here, although the first time I had to do this, I used a hacksaw with new, fine-toothed blade) and using a nut (a non-nylon locking preferred, if available, but not critical), draw remains of bolt out...use graphite grease (or AS) on threads and bearing surface of nut to decrease friction...threads are not continuous on entire bolt-shaft, so it will take several repetitions of removing nut and adding a stack of washers for spacers to make Irresistible Removal Force!, similar to a threaded puller, to extract remains of the bolt-shaft.  After head of bolt is removed and before beginning to apply pulling force with nut, spray penetrating oil into clearance (this is mostly worthless, unless it is given some time to penetrate the porous corrosion products, but it can't hurt...).  Don't worry that remains of bolt will turn when tightening nut...if it was loose enough to turn, it would have come out when pounded on...  Apply tighening mega TORQUE to nut with biggest breaker bar you own, plus using an extension pipe, to the MFP (See Reference: Mosquito Force Point)   ...better yet, break out that new impact driver or air-driver you have been waiting to put to good use...

Once shaft starts moving, spray more penetrating oil into hole in alu core to wick into alu-oxide between bolt-shaft and alu core.  Eventually after several iterations of spacer and nut replacement, pulling the bolt most of the way through the hole, it can be drifted out the rest of the way. 

[This strategy can naturally be adapted and used as a last resort for other through-fasteners, such as on Lower Control Arm, as shown below.]


Amazon station wagon rear suspension overview showing Alu core isolation bushing (20). 
Source:  GCP Site.

 

 
(Simplified) detailed X-ray view of assembly.  Alu bushing core actually contacts axle tabs.  Rubber, which is effectively between tabs and trailing arm, isolates these from each other.

 

 
Detail showing Bolt-shaft removal. 
Bolt must be sacrificed, but nut can then make Irresistible Removal Force!

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122/1800 Lower A-Arm Pivot Bolt Removal:


122/1800 Lower A-arm detail showing the long pivot bolt (53) which passes through sleeve in crossmember and likes to become one with same...Trick 17 is effective in removal once all other attempts have failed...

Wouldn't it be nice if cars were assembled with Graphite Grease or Anti-Seize?  

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External material attributed.  Otherwise, these article is Copyright © 2009-2016 Ronald Kwas.  The term Volvo is used for reference only.  I have no affiliation with this company other than to try to keep its vintage products working for me, and to help and encourage other enthusiasts do the same.  The information presented here comes from factory or my own experience or my own experience and carefully considered opinion, and can be used or not, or ridiculed and ridiculed, at the readers discretion.  As with any recipe, your results may vary, and you are, and will always be, in charge of your own knuckles and future! 

You are welcome to use the information here in good health, and for your own non-commercial purposes, but if you reprint or otherwise republish this article, you must give credit to the author or link back to the SwEm site as the source.  If you donít, youíre just a lazy, scum sucking plagiarist, and the Boston Globe wants you!  As always, if you can supply corrections, or additional objective information or experience, I will always consider it, and consider working it into future revisions of these article...along with likely the odd metaphor and maybe wise-a** comment, as they come to me... 

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