Wiper Arm and Blades Notes
First published Mar 2017 (changes on-going)

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Wiper Arm is connected to Wiper Driveshaft, which comes through cowling under the Windshield, by way of a Drive Bushing of soft whitemetal.  At some point, it may become necessary to remove or replace the Wiper Arm.  This must be done carefully.

Inexpensive Wiper Arm Removal Tools are available, which hook under the lip of the attachment cup, to allow a simple one-handed removal of the arm.  These also prevent the cup from snapping away when released from the drive-post. 

If a removal tool is not available, below shows the alternate removal of Wiper Arm using a flatblade screwdriver as a lever...this will lever the Cup of the Arm off the Drive Bushing.  Proceed GENTLY!  Hook end of screwdriver blade under Wiper Arm Cup only and not Drive Bushing also...purpose is to pry Cup off Drive Bushing, not Drive Bushing from Driveshaft!!

Because of the big tension spring, which also serves to press the Wiper Blade onto the glass, Cup will tend to get pulled and rotate toward the Arm as it is pulled by the beefy spring, as shown here (3).  Mechanic should be aware and ready for this!! 


Wiper Arm Removal Options.  If a "Removal Tool" is not available, GENTLY(!) remove Wiper Arm with a lever, and lift the Wiper Arm off the splined Bushing.  The Retaining Spring (orange) is easily overcome to allow this .  Paintwork is protected and a strategically sized Fulcrum Block is used. 

 

Unfortunately also, if Bushing to Driveshaft connection has been weakened by any mechanical insults (such as not freeing the Wiper Arm from being frozen in-place in the winter) or anything of the sort which might make it weaker than Bushing to Arm connection, the Bushing might release from the Driveshaft...then it looks like the picture below!  That is why one must proceed gently with this and any other removal technique!  


Unsuccessful removal of Wiper Arm...Drive Bushing has separated from Drive shaft instead of Arm...at 3O'Clock Drive Bushing looks like it has endured some mechanical insult.  Drive Bushing needs replacement! 

 

 


From Facebook ("Volvo 122" Group) Posting...the white-metal Drive Bushing which is pressed onto the small (rusted) splined Wiper-Driveshaft, is missing in this picture.  The larger (also) splined hole in the Wiper Arm base cannot be installed until this Bushing is present (and solidly connected to the driveshaft!).  Only with a solid connection between the driveshaft and Wiper Arm can high forces be transferred.  If not connected well, it wouldn't be the first time these high forces caused a Wiper Arm to become disconnected and lost on the side of the road...in a rainstorm...not so good! 

 


Wiper Arm Drive Bushing details, also showing two different style Retaining Springs on the Wiper Arm Cup...these don't do much in the way of keeping the Arm on Bushing...with the forces applied to the Arm by the motor, if splined connection is loose and Arm wants to become disconnected, it will...then, one may find themselves looking for the Wiper Arm at the side, or middle of the road...in the rain...DON'T GET RUN OVER BY TRAFFIC! 

Installing Wiper Arm:  Variations in the splining of the Wiper Arm Cup in Arms from various manufacturers can also be seen in the two pictures above...typically, there are more splines on the Drive Bushing than Cup, so this allows installer some angular options when installing a Wiper Arm back onto the Drive Bushing.  Technique should be to hold the Arm at the preferred Parking position angle on Windshield, then fold the Cup open against the beefy spring (if the "Removal Tool" is not already doing that) to align it with Drive Bushing, and vary the angular position until the nearest mating point is found, then pressing the Cup home onto the Bushing.


Currently available replacement Drive Bushing, which certainly looks like brass...installed with a hammer...the splines on the Driveshaft cut into the soft brass...I don't like the hammer part so much, but it looks like installer was successful here...a drop of Loktite to wick into and fill any spaces between the two to further secure the connection might be a good idea...

 

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Other Creative and Non-Original Repairs:  


A somewhat rustic "setscrew repair" undertaken after an Arm was lost...I saw this in my surfing around the net...it looks like it would work, but I don't like it so much as it is pretty ugly, and it seems that it would significantly weaken the small Driveshaft below Bushing as the size of the setscrews is approaching the diameter of the splined shaft.

The author came up with this solution some years ago, for keeping the Anco Standard Replacement Arm (See info on this below) firmly attached to Wiper Drive Shaft, which is arguably less rustic and (slightly) less ugly than the one above (...so says he!)...  A very carefully hand-drilled and tapped arrangement with a SS 6-32 screw installed keeps the Driveshaft and Wiper Arm positively united:  


This is a workable repair which leaves all splining of the Driveshaft intact, unweakened, and able to transmit the operating torque, but not recommended for the faint of heart...if the drillbit was not down the center or Tap were to break during the operation, it would render the assembly into scrap, and increase the scope of the repair project, and number of expletives uttered, a lot....

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Links: 

Wiper Arm/Post Repair

SW-EM Tech Article:  Windshield Wiper Systems

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Reference Information:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_metal

Anco No. 41-01 Original Equipment style Standard Wiper Replacement Arm.  This is not a specific endorsement, but the author has found quality to be good, cost to be reasonable and to work satisfactorily.  Other Manufacturers probably produce similar parts: 


I have found the this part works well on the 122 and 1800 application when paired with 11 inch wiper Blades for the 122 or 13 inch Blades on the 1800.  Note that Blade angle with respect to Arm is adjustable, and that included is a Drive Bushing with a setscrew securing arrangement.  This might be just the thing for a damaged Drive Shaft! 

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External material attributed. This information is Copyright © 2017.  Ronald Kwas.   The term Volvo and Anco are used for reference only.  I have no affiliation with either company, other than to try to keep their products working for me, help other enthusiasts do the same, and also present my highly opinionated results of the use of their products here.  The information presented comes from my own experience and carefully considered opinion, and can be used (or not!), or ridiculed and laughed at, or sent to Sweden to your uncle Olaf for review, at the readers discretion.  As with any recipe, your results may vary, and you are, and will always be, in charge of your own knuckles, and future!

 

You are welcome to use the information here in good health, and for your own non-commercial purposes, but if you reprint or otherwise republish this article, you must give credit to the author or link back to the SwEm site as the source.  If you donít, youíre just a lazy, scum sucking plagiarist, and the Boston Globe wants you!  As always, if you can supply corrections, or additional objective information or experience, I will always consider it, and consider working it into the next revision of this article...along with likely the odd metaphor and probably wise-a** comment. 

 

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