Wiper Assembly Removal from an 1800S (without Dashboard Removal!)
by Guest Contributor John Finn. 5-2021 [Comments added!
[The following procedure for removal of Wiper Assembly, which can be done with Dashboard in-place, has been authored by Guest Contributor John Finn, immediately after having performed the task, and reposted here with his kind permission, proving that first, the task can even be done, and second, in the hopes that it can be of help to another 1800 owner. Ron]
Removing Wiper Motor Assembly with out taking out the dash in a 1968 Volvo 1800S
This is what I did (3 times) and it worked, so maybe it will work for you too.
1) Disconnect the battery
2) Remove wiper arms, chrome cups and rubber bushings from wiper spindles
3) Note the position of the wires from the wiper motor on the wiper/washer switch terminals and then disconnect them and pull them back to the wiper motor
4) Remove the 2 defroster tubes from the passenger side under the dash
5) Remove oil pressure gauge tube from the back of the oil pressure gauge(may have to remove the bracket that holds the gauge in to get the tube nut free)
6) CAREFULLY move the tube over and out of the way by sliding it under the clock and then up
7) Remove any wires that may be in the way ie the ground wire for the oil pressure gauge, perhaps the lights for the clock, oil pressure gauge and/or fuel gauge
8) Using a ¼ inch drive ratchet and a long “wiggle” extension (ie an extension with rounded end so the socket can wiggle around a bit) remove the 2 bolts that hold the frame to the upper fire wall. You may need to move one or both of the arms to get at the bolts. Do this by pushing on the short shaft near the motor shaft with a screw driver to rotate the shaft and move the arms.
9) When you have the 2 bolts out, pull the motor and frame down to get the wiper spindles down and out of the holes in the body. The assembly should then drop down into the dash cavity.
10) Carefully move the assembly towards the passenger side watching for any wires or cables that interfere with moving it along. You may have to remove the cable from the temperature control on the heater control, although I was able to carefully ease mine around the motor and out of the way.
11) When you have the assembly far enough towards the passenger side, drop it down and out from under the dash
12) Congratulations, you got it out. Have an adult beverage.
Before you reinstall the assembly, bench test the functions and make sure everything is working properly. Trust me, you don’t want to have to take it out again after you put it back in and it doesn’t work. Been there …done that.
This part is only about 3 times as difficult as getting the unit out.
1) Presuming you left everything disconnected and out of the way that was necessary in order to get the unit out, you should be able to lift the assembly up and slide it towards the drivers side and back into rough position for the reinstall
2) Push the wiper spindles up through the holes in the body
3) Prop up the assembly with something (I used a roll of painter tape between the motor and the dash) so it doesn’t drop down while you get outside of the car and
4) Put the rubber bushings, the chrome parts and the lock nuts on the wiper spindles. (you may have to pull up on the spindle to get the nuts on but be careful not to pull too hard on the end of the spindle or it will come off of the spindle) Only tighten the nuts loosely.
5) Get back under the dash, locate the holes in the frame that hold the assembly to the upper firewall
6) Using the same socket set up as you used for removal, insert the bolt closest to the drivers side into the socket and then push the extension up and past the rail so the bolts go into the upper firewall. You may have to move the rail to get access to the hole.
7) Once you have the first bolt started, only tighten it slightly and then do the other hole which is located about 5 inches towards the passenger side. Again, you may have to move the rail to get the bolt to line up with the hole in the upper fire wall.
8) Tighten both bolts
9) Snake the wires from the motor along the inner aspect of the fire wall to the wiper/washer switch and reconnect the wires. On my car with an Electrolux wiper motor the Red wire goes to the F terminal; The Green wire goes to the P terminal and the Black wire goes to the A terminal. Confirmed Correct!
10) Reconnect the tube to the oil pressure switch by carefully moving in back towards the center of the car, past the clock and into position for reconnection to the back of the oil pressure gauge
11) Reconnect any wires or light bulbs that you may have moved out of the way ie ground wire for the oil pressure gauge, light bulb for the oil pressure gauge, fuel gauge or clock etc)
12) Tighten to lock nuts on the wiper spindles
13) Reconnect the battery
Verify that the unit is functioning as it should and then have an adult beverage. Good job.
By my count, that is two times we have been instructed (as part of the procedure), to "Have an adult beverage"! John is my kind of mechanic!
This procedure is Copyright © 2021 by Guest Contributor John Finn. It is presented here strictly as a guide, to help other vintage Volvo owners and must be used in conjunction with normal cautious shop practice. As with any recipe, your results may vary, and you are, and will always be, in charge of your own knuckles and future! Work Safely!
You are welcome to use the information here in good health, and for your own non-commercial purposes, but if you reprint or otherwise republish this information, you must give credit to the author or link back to the SwEm site as the source. If you don’t, you’re just a lazy, scum sucking plagiarist, and the Boston Globe wants you! As always, if you can supply corrections, or additional objective information or experience, I will always consider adding it...along with likely the odd metaphor and possibly questionable comment.