Product Reviews     
Originally posted 11/08-R. Kwas  Updates On-going...mostly as the spirit moves me!  [Comments Added]

General Information


Just in case anyone’s interested, here is a list of products which we have used and my (highly opinionated!) impression of each.  Please note that I have been given NONE of the products listed here for promotional purposes, but have personally bought and paid for all of them, so the opinions expressed here are strictly from my own, and in no way influenced by any marketing departments! 

My Most-Favorite-Products and preferred products (which I use first, and which I highly recommend...I also buy these in bulk when the price is right, and hoard them like some sort of Über-hunter-gatherer, just so that I don’t run out,) Not-So-Favorite-Products...(I use ‘em, but can take ‘em or leave ‘em)...and don't really go out of my way to get them...finally, my...You-Wont-Get-Any-of-My-Business-Ever-Again,-I-Hope-Your-CEO-Chokes-on-a-Chicken-Bone-Products...too. 

I have no financial interest in any of these companies, but I know what works (and what doesn’t) for me!

Rated with thumbs, from two up ,to two down , they are presented in the order they came to me while I was thinking about a list for this page, included are hopefully helpful remarks in the categories of:  Advantages, Applications, Disadvantages, Manufacturer/Source, Other:  The "unique and interesting" thumbs up and down pix were stolen from where I found then posted...which I didn't record so is probably lost forever.

            Most-Favorite-Products :

[It may be time to alphabetize this list...!]

Permatec Anti-Seize
Burndy Penetrox

Dow Corning DC-200 Silicon Lube
Marvel Mystery Oil
Mobil 28 Synthetic Grease
A Note about Penetrants
Room Temperature Vulcanizer (RTV
DOT5 Brake (Hydraulic) Silicon Fluid
Dry Teflon Spray
Carb Cleaner
Brake Cleaner
Gaffer Tape

DL Hand Cleaner
Lexol Leather Conditioner and Preservative
Novus Plastic Treatments

Erdinger Weissbier




Heineken Beer
Anheiser-Busch Products
Lucas Automotive Electrics
Starburnt Coffee

General Information (OR:  ...what no well equipped shop should be without)
    Anaerobic Adhesives/Threadlockers

Reference Information


Permatex Anti-Seize

Graphite filled grease...I don't start ANY automotive work nowadays without it close at hand!  Link to its own SwEm Page


Burndy Penetrox : 

Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste for electrical connections...I don't start ANY automotive (or home) electrical work nowadays without it close at hand!  Link to its own SwEm Page [...and guess doubles as an anti-seize on kiddin'!  See data and applications sheet!]


Tri-Flow PTFE containing precision oil : 

Advantages:  Can be misted over general areas as a preservative anti-corrosive creeping oil (which is kind-of a waste) or pin-point applied by the half-drop to wick into the smallest crevice for lubing.  Tri-Flow leaves behind a pleasant (banana?) smelling oil with excellent film strength (probably due to the PTFE particles), which doesn’t dry out or gum up in decades.  It has a wide suitable temperature range: (-60 to 475F).  It displaces moisture (WD [sucks!]...and although its in their name, does NOT have the exclusive on this!!).  Fine mechanisms I have lubed with it (which are not exposed to outside atmosphere) do not exhibit the need for new lubrication for a very long time (years, decades even!).  Carlocks and mechanisms exposed to the elements on the other hand, do well with a yearly treatment.  Applications:  Fine mechanisms, car and home lock cylinders, bicycle control cables and chains (for automotive control cables like choke, heater or clutch, I prefer the heavier duty anti-seize), switches and bushings in electric/electronic devices, sluggish pullchord switches on lamps, binding or squeaking hinges, bushings and pivot points, fishing reels, yard and garage tool hinges, padlocks, firearms, model railroading mechanisms, etc.  Disadvantages:  It is a petroleum based oil so it has a lower upper temperature operating limit than synthetics, and it creeps making a possible mess.  Manufacturer/Sources:  It’s made by Thompson and Formby / Bicycle, motorcycle, and firearms shops, on-line shops have it.  Other:  The particulate micro-PTFE does settle out while the container is static, awaiting use, so shaking WELL and for a long time before use is absolutely required if you want to include the PTFE particles in the application!  Tri-Flow is packaged in 4-12 oz spray cans with snoozles as well as small, handy 2 oz. non-aerosol containers also with a word, er...two...:  Great Stuff!  Link to Manufacturers Page:

Just in case your wondering what all is in this product...apparently quite a lot!  See:


Super-Lube by SYNCO : 

Light duty synthetic grease containing PTFE:  Advantages:  Very good lubricative properties for light duty jobs, stays where it’s put and does not creep away, has no creeping, staining oil-filmApplications:  Lubing light mechanisms where grease or film creepage is undesirable, lubing O’Rings or Seals before installation (check compatibility with other materials present, but its pretty darn benign!), giving a hair-trigger to the release mechanisms of mouse traps at your birdseed storage!  Disadvantages:  Film is light and easily displacable, but very long-lasting and tough to remove totally.  Don’t use anywhere near a surface to be painted...”fisheyes” will surely result.  If you have used it anywhere near a car to be painted, be sure to inform the painter so that he pre-cleans the surfaces (three times!).   Manufacturer/SourceXXXXXXX  Link to Manufacturers Page:   Other:


Dow Corning DC-200 Silicon Lube

Description of physical characteristics:

CAUTION and WARNING:  Silicon lube film is EXTREMELY LONG-LIVED which is good in terms of its function, but it will also cause excruciating pain if the slightest amount is inadvertently gotten into the eyes, especially under contact lenses. Work carefully to prevent such an occurrence!  This warning is thankfully not from personal experience, but I remember it from a Dow-Corning product literature where it was stressed in no uncertain terms!

Industrially packaged DC-200 I got a looong time ago...compatible with rubber, and DOT5 Brake fluid! 

See also Impromptu Compatibility test:  DC-200/DOT5 Compatibility Test


Evaporust (a "Super Safe Rust Remover"!) 

PLACEHOLDER for comments - Pending further research and tests! (Initial experience with it looks encouraging! this space!)

Manufacturer's site:


Scotchbrite (abrasive): 



Marvel Mystery Oil 

Advantages:  A light topend lube which has been around a long can be combusted, so can be added to fuel to increase lubricity, which is beneficial for mechanical components the fuel is in contact with (i.e. engine valve stems, SU dampers, D-Jet Fuel Pump, Fuel Pressure Reg, Injectors),  Applications:  Freeing up piston rings of engines, or even D-Jet Injectors which have not been run a loong time.  See:  LINK Freeing Piston Rings , use as an SU carb damping oil when ATF is not handy.  See Link: Damping oil             Disadvantages:  PLACEHOLDER                   Manufacturer/Source:           Other:  
 Link to Manufacturers Page 


Mobil 28 Synthetic Grease

AdvantagesPolyalphaolefin (PAO) Synthetic base aviation grease good from -54 to 177C                    Applications:   Disadvantages:                     Manufacturer/Source:           Other:  Link to Manufacturers Page

Copied from Exxonmobil's page: 


Mobilgrease 28 is a supreme performance, wide-temperature, antiwear grease designed to combine the unique features of a polyalphaolefin (PAO) synthetic base fluid with an organo-clay (non-soap) thickener. Its consistency is between an NLGI No. 1 and No. 2 grease. It offers outstanding performance over a wide temperature range. The wax-free nature of the synthetic base fluid, together with its high viscosity index compared to mineral oils, provide excellent low temperature pumpability, very low starting and running torque, and can help reduce operating temperatures in the load zone of rolling element bearings.

The clay thickener gives Mobilgrease 28 a high dropping point value of around 300C, which provides excellent stability at high temperatures. Mobilgrease 28 resists water washing, provides superior load-carrying ability, reduces frictional drag, and prevents excessive wear. Tests show that Mobilgrease 28 lubricates effectively rolling element bearings under conditions of high speeds and temperatures. Mobilgrease 28 has also shown excellent ability to lubricate heavily loaded sliding mechanisms, such as wing flap screw jacks.

For more than 30 years, Mobilgrease 28 has been the multi-purpose grease of choice for military and related aviation applications, worldwide.

Mobilgrease 28 is qualified by the U.S. Military under Specification MIL-PRF-81322, General-Purpose, Aircraft, and Specification DOD-G-24508A (Navy) for shipboard auxiliary machinery. It is a U.S. Military Symbol WTR and NATO Code Number G-395 grease. It meets the quality level of DOD-G-24508A, Amendment 4.




PB-Blaster : 

Advantages:  It's one of the best working Penetrating lubes for helping to loosen rusted or otherwise stuck hardware.  Applications:  Frozen, stuck hardware which hasn't been turned for a long time, and which didn't get any Graphite or Anti-Seize Grease at last assembly time...or maybe ever.  Disadvantages:  Doesn't smell so nice [...but I'm not using is as Cologne!] Manufacturers Page: 

PB Blaster is described in the manufacturer's documentation, as a "Magnetic Lubricant" & "Penetrating Catalyst". 

I ran across this excellent explanation of that marketing department horse-pucky here:

"Magnetic Lubricant" is a technical term meaning it will attract the coins in your pocket and help you remove them more easily and quickly so you can use them to buy the product. [It wouldn't be so bad if coins is all it took...I seldom have more than two bucks worth in my pocket!]

"Penetrating Catalyst" is a technical term meaning if you let the product claims penetrate your thinking that you will be catalyzed into spending money on the product.


A Note about Penetrants:

...I don't have a huge preference of any one product over the others...since penetrants are really an aiding product to help with disassembly, I'll use just about any product advertised as a penetrant...including from a can, pin-point applied with a snoozle, to light oil or ATF poured into a "Soaking Container"...I'm not so picky at time of disassembly!...where I get picky, is at time of reassembly!

I also have a "Soaking Container" for parts removed but still frozen (like Brake fittings, or Rear Brake Adjusters for example), where I figure they can sit in some penetrating liquid for a year or three, until I'm bored and attack them again...

List of penetrants I have used:  Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Marvel Mystery Oil, even ATF/Acetone (50% mix, a commonly recommended home-made penetrant), Tri-flow, even WD-40 (although I generally dislike the stuff and can't even remember having bought any in a very looong time!).  See also:  Not-So-Favorite-Products )


Room Temperature Vulcanizer (RTV) (family of products) : 

Gen Purpose
Hi Temperature (736) Solvent Compatible

Note:  Multiple manufacturers produce RTV products, and some just repackage it under their own brand and labeling.  Friendly Advice:  Read the label carefully to be certain the type you select is suited for the particular job!  Dow-Corning products and numbers are given above as an example, but reading the label at the automotive supply store will go a long way to assuring the one you buy meets your needs!

Silicon Room Temperature Vulcanizer [not to be confused with Mr. Spock!]:  Several formulations exist, from General Purpose (D-C 732) to High Temp (D-C736, Red), to heavy, viscous or runny self-leveling, also Hydrocarbon/Solvent Compatible (D-C 730) – study characteristics closely to select correct one for the application!  See also:   Advantages:  Excellent shear and peel strength throughout wide thermal range, will take on any shape of the surface it is applied to, from glass to rock, can be cleanly trimmed after curing with a blade, will remain compliant and stable in its characteristics for sealing and glueing for years(!), glued joints can be undone with a shearing cord (think of cutting adhesive with a dental flossing action), and material can usually be tracelessly removed.  It is not a good conductor of electricity so very well suited for for low voltage insulating purposes.  Applications:  Gluing of just about any material (short of Teflon) to any other material (short of Teflon), including badges to vehicles (with no holes!), sealing out air or moisture, sealing of holes in fuel bladder/tank, instead of fuel-system gaskets, (Beware:  General purpose RTV (like D-C 732) is not suitable for hydrocarbons.  Hydrocarbon compatible fluro-silicon formulation (like D-C 730, not cheap(!)) must be used for fuel contact applications!), making custom spring pads (i.e. the replacement separator "spring" for LINK:  Amazon Horn Switch Repair) or non-slip feet or bumpers, insulating (thermal and electric), soft-mounting, potting of assemblies against moisture...the list is long, and getting longer all the time!  Disadvantages:  Requires oil-film free, clean surface to properly bond (but what glue doesn’t?), some formulations release acetic acid during curing (smells like an enclosed area, some may complain, some may make a stink about it, themselves), some formulations release methane (so do I after Mexican food!), full curing time is a function of cross sectional area of exposure and level of humidity, and so certain applications may take longer than 24 hrs to cure(!), must cure before exposure to hydrocarbons, paint will not adhere to it, it is not a good conductor of heat.  (For the If-a-little-is-good,-globbing-it-on-with-a-shovel-must be-better types):  Beware, excess which squishes out of a joint can become dislodged and clog up some place you'd rather not have it this in a Cooling System system (  Blocked Coolant Distribution Tube in Cylinder Head  )!  Once tube is opened, tends to vulcanize right up the nozzle, all the way into the tube...seal unused portion of dispenser from outside moisture well!  Manufacturer/Source:  Dow-Corning, General-Electric, are the big producers.  Other:  Various colors are available.  Link to Manufacturers Page: 


DOT5 Brake (Hydraulic) Silicon Fluid :  Link to its own SwEm Page


Deoxit (family of products), electric contact cleaner and preservative evolution of their "Cramolin" product :  Advantages:  Not just a contact cleaner which leaves nothing behind, so that you need to reapply soon again in an endless cycle, but a cleaner which leaves a long-lasting neutralizing and lubricating chemical barrier behind.  Applications:  Scratchy potentiometers (level controls on equipment), selector switch contacts, and connector contacts in electronic (including audio or automotive) equipment including 122 and 544 Fuse Blocks after restoration (I apply it for for general protection / use Penetrox for specific protection), and Bosch D-Jetronic connectors and all Throttle Position Switches – [TPS] especially the later ones which cannot be opened for inspection or servicing.  Temperature Range is specified as -34 C (-29 F) to +200 C (400 F) so it is suitable for those D-Jet connections in the engine compartment!  Disadvantages:  Film from overspray is bothersome and tough to clean (mask area, use gloves, wipe overspray).  Manufacturer/Source:  CAIG Laboratories / professional industrial electronic suppliers, on-line.  Other: Link to Manufacturers Page (they have recently redone their homepage, with cartoons and goofy looking graphics...I guess a 20 year old was hired into their advertising department, but don't let that turn you off from their excellent products!):      LINK to its own Page:  Deoxit D5 Additional

Link to 5% solution spray, for connection which have been in service, will likely have surface contamination/corrosion to some extent, and could use a flushing in addition to the application of protectant:

Spray can with snoozle and variable volume valve.


100% strength product in a squeeze bottle with needle dispenser, for one-drop-at-a-time application on clean, shiny new (or recently cleaned) connections or contacts (expensive, yes, but there are 1250 +/- drops at 0.02 ml/drop in that 25ml bottle, so that bottle will last a looong time for normal people, who use it at a much slower rate than the writer, who uses it in the preparation and prelube of for instance Brake Light Switches in the Brake Light Switch Kit!):   


Pictures from CAIGs site!

For those interested, an interesting page I found, which covers the evolution of this product :


Dry Teflon Spray:  Advantages:  Sprays on wet, creeps into crevasses, and dries absolutely dry, leaving a thin continuous film of Teflon particles, but without any wet film which will capture and hold dust or dirt, which will act as an abrasive.  Applications:  Places where lubrication is needed but where lots of dust or particulates would get captured by a wet-film product and cause problems...i.e. cutting blades, suspension bushings or balljoints.  Disadvantages:  Particulate Teflon is not so good to breathe into your lungs, (wear particulate mask).  Manufacturer/Source:  ? / but distributed under Black & Decker’s name a while ago, then discontinued...probably by the California safety whackos because some brainiac inhaled it to see what kind of high he could get out of it, and got screwed up.  I laid in a lifetime supply of stock by buying up a case, and sharing it with racer Ron T. from an overstock place (and I feel pretty smug about it!)....I don’t know where to get it under the B&D label anymore, but Super Lube now has a Dry-Film PTFE lube I expect is very similar, with all the advantages.  Other:  I expect it will even improve High Voltage surface creepage or arcing ratings in electric equipment because of dielectric characteristics (I have yet to confirm this). 


Carb Cleaner (no specific manufacturer type):  Advantages:  A portable can of high-order hydrocarbon, under pressure, therefore applyable with force and pinpoint accuracy (use snoozle!) for loosening and flushing away external carb dirt, internal gummed up fuel deposits, and carburetor gritnick (wear eye protection!), but also instantly giving those nasty yellow jacket wasps, which took over the seam between the drivers side door and front fender during last summer, something other than defending their territory to think about!  Cleans label-stickem from containers as well as paint from acid-brushes, when doing small paint jobs which you don’t want to break out a fullsized brush or thinner for.  Also, when ignited, gives spectacular nighttime fireball shows (Kids:  "Don’t try this at home"...suggest your friend try it at his home to impress his mom...and "roll video tape" just in case it all goes wrong, least you can get some hopefully only entertainment mileage out of, there are TV shows which actually show and maybe even pay for harebrain videos like this!).  Applications:  Cleaning carbs and oil or grease films off vehicular surfaces (...most boring use!), killing angry, inbound flying and stinging insects (...infinitely more exciting use!), charging up potato / tennisball cannons (...more pyrotechnic fun), and making night-time fire displays (maybe the most exiting), especially as the fireball comes back and ignites any liquid which sneaked past the valve and is sitting on the top of can (See:  “roll video tape” )!  Disadvantages:  Because of the atomized fuel, can make lighting oneself up, way too easy...wear Nomex® undergarments and stay clear of sources of ignition...this includes those Swischer Sweets stogies you like to smoke while wrenching! (See:  “roll video tape” ). 

Manufacturer/Source:  Numerous / Automotive stores, watch for specials!  Other:  Use with good ventilation...preferably outdoors, especially when (your friend) is doing the fireball trick! 


Brake Cleaner (no specific manufacturer type, formulation which smells like  dry-cleaning fluid / Tetrachloroethylene):  This solvent is nonflammable (and so possibly not nearly as much fun as the Carb Cleaner above - see "Don’t try this at home"), but is less likely to attack the insulating lacquers used on magnet wire, and this characteristic is crucial when cleaning inside motors or relays where it is advantageous to blast away carbon brush dust of Wiper or Blower motors with a cleaning solvent, but also important not to compromise the insulating qualities of the magnet coils in any way!


My answer to a "Brake Cleaner" Thread (  ):

There are many different formulations for Brake Cleaner, so effectiveness and compatibility tests are always a good idea for a given job. Formulations which smell like dry-cleaning fluid (Tetrachloroethylene), I'm pretty sure are non-flammable...maybe the type Kay gets is of a similar formulation as spray Carb-Cleaners...these are (Highly!) flammable, and can be used to locate False-Air leaks or even to replace the fuel supply for quick tests, or to help start the Lawn-mower in the spring. A shop Fire-Extinguisher is not such a bad thing!

The non-flammable Tetrachloroethylene based Brake Cleaner is a lot safer if flammability is not needed, and generally does not attack the insulating lacquers used on magnet wire, so it is the preferred solvent for flushing out dust or carbon brush dust out of Relays or Electric Motor innards (Starter, Wiper, Blower, Windshield Washer Pump).

High order solvents are all good for removing stubborn sticker-goo or tree sap, or instantly giving the flying insects attacking you while you're working on a car something else to think about, besides defending their home, built in the can even be lit on fire at night for (questionable) entertainment, and to possibly impress the wife, pets and neighbors (Don't try this at home style!)...uses are almost endless!


Gaffer Tape (with apologies to H. Ford, available in any color as long as it’s Black) :  Advantages:  “Sticks like sh** to wool blankets” Joe M., is strong as hell in tension, or for temporarily fastening dry surfaces together (like the left front fender, after that guy in the E-Production Triumph tried to outbrake you into Bigbend with a soft pedal, and his tail came around and damn near peeled it off!), until more permanent means can be implemented.  Beats the heck out of even the real duct tape whose adhesive dries after a while (especially in the sun) before the silver layer separates from the dried and useless fabric and dried glue residue left  which is a bi*** to clean off – use Carb-Cleaner, or Brake Cleaner for this (and certainly beats the trash knockoffs like “Tuck” Tape [china’s finest!] available everywhere!), Gaffer Tape is meant to be applied and removed and applied and removed...etc.  I’ve removed it from surfaces (not exposed and cooked by sunlight) and reused it a year after it first came off the roll, with no separation or degradation in adhesive or function!  Applications:  Wherever Duct tape fails.  Disadvantages:  Not compatible with hydrocarbons (don’t fix a fuel-line with it!), cost (about $15 a roll).  Manufacturer/Source:  Permacel / Photographic supply houses.  Other: Link to Manufacturers Page

I notice that Gorilla Tape is now available (an offshoot product from the polyester Gorilla Glue manufacturer) is now available...I have yet to try this this space!


Rain-X Advantages:  Improves visibility through the windshield during rain tremendously, because rainwater beads up on the hydrophobic film instead of flattening out across the glass distorting driver’s view through it.  This allows driver to literally “see between the drops”.  The beads have less adhesion to windshield because of the film, and also present more frontal area to the wind rushing by, so wind sweeps them up the windshield and away...under some conditions of rainfall and roadspeed, wipers aren’t even required, so this doesn’t put any more wear and tear on that vintage wiper mechanism (which you haven’t had a chance to refurbish yet!); frozen-on moisture during winter is easier to remove because it just doesn’t adhere as well to the film, so it makes windshield cleaning easier.  Applications:  Windhields, and all (outside) vehicle glass including rearview mirrors.  Disadvantages:  Seems to break up older, oxidized wiper blades more rapidly, resulting in black lines on surface as the oxidized layers of rubber are shed from wiper surface (this can be cleaned up) blades are less susceptible to this.  Used on inside glass surfaces, causes hazing...(do not use on inside glass surfaces!)  Manufacturer/Source:  SOPUS Products, Houston TX, Other:,  Winter road dirt and wiping removes the film from and necessitates more frequent reapplication.  Link to Manufacturers Page:

Link to discussion on using it:

Link to Subaru Forum discussion on it:

Read there:

02-23-2004, 09:23 AM
Another happy Rain-X'r. Any speed over 30 miles per hour and you don't even need your wipers.
Best quote ever from a girl riding shotgun: " Do you have some special kind of windshield?"


DL Blue Label Hand Cleaner (Emulsifying gel type hand cleaner, now sold under the name DL Permatex) Advantages:   Works better than any other hand cleaner I've tried (including the one whose name rimes with Joe Blow)! It contains lanolin and aloe vera amoung other things. Applications:  Cleaning grease soaked hands after wrenching obviously, (so that when you go see "Le Nozze di Figaro" on Friday night after having done an oil change on Wednesday, your fingernails will not spoil the effect as your sipping the Asti!), but also grease or common pen ink spots from clothing.  Allows you to be a home wrencher, but not look like it the resto of the week!   Saving your favorite shirt from becoming a use-for-oil-changing-only one!  Disadvantages:  Emulsifying action is stopped by water – once you start rinsing, the emulsifying effect is done...don’t rush rinsing...emulsify all the mess before rinsing!  Manuf. / Sources:  LINK DL Permatex   Other: A long time ago, when I first discovered it, it used to be its own brand...then Permatex bought it up.  It is now sold as DL Permatex...I guess they know a good product when they see it too!  Permatex, being a technical products company, have also published a Technical Product Sheet .


Lexol Leather Conditioner and Preservative Advantages:  Spray applicator allows a general misting of emulsion product over a wide area simplifying application...product is specifically designed not to "creep" to adjacent areas.  Applications:  Just about any leather product (except suede) you want to be good to...including keeping the leather seats in that '73 ES from turning into cardboard, leather furniture, keeping those (original leather) Hippo Hands supple for the next scooter ride in less than perfect weather, and keeping your lederhosen supple for some serious beer drinking and Schuhplattling at the Oktoberfest visit!   Disadvantages: ?  Manuf. / Sources: Summit Industries   LINK:


Novus Plastic Treatments Advantages:  (Remarks Coming!)  Manuf.:

Erdinger Weissbier
Advantages:  Wheatbeer brewed to the German purity law of 1516 (as in year's the earliest food purity law!), it is really tasty, truly refreshing, and the brewer's yeast it contains is quite healthy for's best while Volvo-wrenching in the summer!  Disadvantages:  None.  Applications:  Really only the obvious one.  Manuf. / Sources:  Brewery of the town of Erding, in the state of Bavaria, Germany.  Link to their HP:


Not-So-Favorite-Products:  I can take 'em or leave 'em...


WD-40 [sucks!]:  Disadvantages/Reasons:  I dislike just about everybody’s favorite and most recommended spray lube because being mostly solvent and very little lube, it may work immediately, but has very poor long-term performance (instant gratification/long-term disappointment is for 14 year olds!), and being a long-term solution kind of guy, it just doesn’t meet my requirements.  Sure, I’ve used it to lube a slave cylinder while I was honing it, or lubed a stuck bolt or bleeding nipple to help with unfreezing, or remove tar from a car finish or price sticker residue from a product surface right now, but I refuse to use it for locks or anywhere where I want or expect long-lasting service.  When I lube a carlock, WD will allow it to work now, but I can repeat the procedure next week.  No thanks!  Instead, I use Tri-Flow once a year!  ...and come to think of it:  I don't like the smell of WD!

I ran across this while looking for info on YT on Ultrasonic Carb Cleaning...apparently Pine-Sol works pretty well, even without ultrasonic vibration to help, and it could be disposed of down the drain(!)...but I couldn't resist leaving a comment when it came time to his recommendation for lubrication...



Not only does the product suck, they also cheat!  Is WD made in china?...juss wondering!




Just about anything “Made in Taiwan or China” :  See: 

Heineken Beer: :  They’ve got a great ad campaign, which is funny and apparently brings in a lot of business, but this brew is made in Holland where they have no purity law for beer and absolutely anything goes...and I mean anything...sorry, I don’t want that applying to my beer!  Have you ever smelled it when warm? 

Anheiser-Busch Products   :  It’s not brewed to the purity law either...have you ever heard of the saying “Budweiser, ...headache in every bottle”!  maybe its from the rice...maybe its from the “anti-foaming chemicals”...

Lucas Automotive Electrics...terrible stuff!  :  Link to its own SwEm Page

I've had a total of two cups, and finished them only because they were so expensive, not flavorful!  If bigger is better, I guess they figured burnt to a crisp is better than roasted.  Too bad, I like coffee. :  Seattle slicksters who buy cheap coffee beans, overroast the bejesus out of them, then try to convince people their coffee tastes good under the principle of:  If roasted is good, then burnt to a crisp must be better.  Sorry, I tried it (twice!), and I’m not buying the ad campaign, and it, ever again!  These whackos are also so presumptuous as to believe that they can put one of their joints into Vienna (where they have had coffee houses since before Mozart’s time, and been making and enjoying the finest coffee in the world), and think they can show those uppity Viennese a thing or two about coffee!!!  I expect them to go the way of that big deal, here today / gone tomorrow, donut joint at some point!  


General Information (OR:  ...what no well equipped shop should be without): 

Classify products as Adhesives/sealants, Lubes, Solvents, Adhesives, Other

Anaerobic Adhesives/Threadlockers:  Several grades are available from medium strength to high strength to wicking, suitable for application after assembly – CAUTION:  In addition to wicking into the joint one is trying to secure, it might keep wicking, and may eventually work its way to a joint one would rather keep free!  Use anaerobic adhesives very carefully! 

Link to:  Houdini Threadlocker  

CA Cyano-Acrylates (Super Glues):  Thin, wicking grades to thicker gel grades are available.  Best if used first for repairs…once other glues have been tried and they have failed, their remains will also work against success of the CA.  Use Baking Soda to speed drying and to give it additional volume to fill kiddin'!...just plug "Super Glue and Baking Soda" into the YT search bar and see how many results come up!  Essentially, BS sprinkled on wet, recently applied CA causes it to instantly set, with the BS giving the CA some volume, with consistency of a hard plastic, shapeable/machineable with a file or abrasive.  The resulting mass can fill a volume, bridge and splint a crack, and because of CAs ability to bond to many different materials, from metal, to plastic, to skin(!) the uses are many!  If the mass stands up to the level of loads/stress applied to it is a matter of the user's judgment, and individual application.   

Two-Component Epoxies:  Many grades of these are available, from “5-Minute” cure types, intended for light duty work, to 24Hr cure type or elevated thermal cure intended for more serious jobs, or even metal filled (i.e. J-B Weld [Metal dust filled has a good name and reputation...I should include some research and notes on the various formulations here....until then, here is manufacturer's link:   ], or thermally conductive types.  Check manufacturer's data (not just the quick pseudo-info on the retail packaging, which was authored by the creative (non-techno)geniuses in the Marketing Department, who got degrees in Communications with a minor in Gender Studies, and not any kind of engineering or materials studies!  See:  MSDS for Ox_Gard).  Select the right grade of epoxy for the job! 

Two-Part Resins:  These fall into two main categories:  Polyester and epoxy.  The polyesters are less expensive, but subject to chemical attack by solvents, including Gasoline.  The Epoxy types are the more expensive, but are more immune to chemical attack.  Fuel tank sealing systems, where the activated mix is poured in and sloshed around to seal pinholes are Epoxy types for sure.  Follow instructions carefully of fuel tank sealing kits (to the letter!) to prevent product from clogging fuel delivery tube and big disappointments! 

A recent use of the POR-15 Tank Sealer on a motor cycle tank to address pinholes, was a complete success.


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The product and trade names used here are for reference only.  I have no affiliation with any of the above listed companies, other than having tried their products, and presenting my highly opinionated results here.  The results presented here are strictly from my own experience, and can be believed (or not, and laughed at and ridiculed!), or worshipped at your discretion.  Your results may vary, but I stand by what is written here, and if that changes, or I can add further info, I will!  As always, if the reader can supply additional objective information or experience, I’d be interested in hearing it, and consider working it into the above notes...along with likely the odd metaphor and maybe wise-a** comment. 

You are welcome to use the information here in good health, and for your own noncommercial purposes, but if you reprint or otherwise republish this article, you must give credit to the author or link back to the SwEm site as the source.  If you don’t, you’re just a lazy, scum sucking plagiarist...go put together your own damn article! 

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